I grew up in a small Idaho town. I initially wrote rural, but in retrospect, Twin Falls wasn’t rural at all. We had a Target and Costco, and by those standards alone, it was a bustling metropolis.
The town often smelled of three things: cattle, sugar beets or french fries. I remember leaving the house on crisp mornings to be greeted by smells of either repugnance or delight. As I type now, my body remembers the anticipation of wondering what odor wafted behind the front door — such an odd juxtaposition of smells.
Along with its rich olfactory and shopping offerings, Twin Falls also provided a surprising breadth of restaurants. We had our fair share of chains, but the true gems were the local haunts. I could write a whole post about my love for the Buffalo Cafe or Nine Beans and a Burrito, but today’s musings reflect on a restaurant long gone called Che.
This unassuming little restaurant, situated on the bustling Blue Lakes Blvd, looked like it could have housed a smoke shop or check cashing store. It was nothing to write home about, which is why I find it so hilarious to be writing about it now. Alas, Che served a dish that is embedded in our family lore and tastebuds: bun thit nuong or Vietnamese cold noodle salad.
However, we never called this delightfully bright and herbaceous salad by it’s proper name. In retrospect, I’m not sure if it was a typo on the menu or an accidental mispronunciation, but this beloved dish became known affectionately to us as bone.
Twin Falls had a number of respectable Asian restaurants, but as far as I can remember, this cold noodle salad was served only at Che. Dressed up with grilled meat, loads of crunchy veggies, and often a Vietnamese spring roll called cha gio, Che beaconed to us as a siren to a sailor. Driving down Blue Lakes, it was hard not to look longingly at Che’s nondescript, shabby, white building while running errands around town. Bone, with its piles of cilantro, called to us.
Well, at least four of the five of us. My sister Heather went through a phase of loathing cilantro. She has since moved from the dark side (sorry Ina, you’re in the dark here), but as a kid she ordered her bone “without the green stuff.” To this day, bone lives on in the hearts, minds, and tastebuds of my nuclear family.
With or without cilantro, bone is super refreshing, completely addictive, and totally customizable to what you have access to. Bun thit nuong is readily found in most Vietnamese restaurants, but it’s a breeze to make.
It’s been many years since I’ve sat down for a proper meal in Twin Falls. It would be fun to see what fine establishment has moved into Che’s old space. Whatever it is, I’m certain they don’t serve bone.
*Stay tuned for the followup post and recipe for the incredible lemongrass-marinated elk seen here. It is worth writing home about.*
Bone or Bun Thit Nuog: Vietnamese Cold Salad
1 package vermicelli rice noodles
4 carrots, sliced thin
1 cucumber, sliced thin
3 green onions, sliced thin
1/2 head cabbage or lettuce, sliced thin
handful of herbs: basil, mint, CILANTRO!
Sesame oil drizzle
grilled protein: beef, elk, venison, pork, chicken, tofu or keep it veggie only
Optional: spring rolls or egg rolls
Nuac cham dressing recipe:
4 tbs fish sauce
4 tbs brown sugar
3 tbs rice vinegar
1 juicy lime or 2 if not so juicy
1/2 cup warm water
3 cloves garlic, grated
1 carrot, grated
sliced chilis if you’re feeling spicy
Directions:
Soak the rice noodles in hot water for 15 minutes. Once softened, drain in a colander and drizzle with a little sesame oil so they don’t stick together (they will if you don’t drizzle them with some sort of oil). Toss well and pour into a large serving bowl. Top with the veggies, herbs, grilled meat, and egg rolls.
For the dressing: combine all ingredients in a bowl and stir well to dissolve the sugar. Cover and refrigerate before serving. Drizzle liberally on the salad. Great for dunking egg rolls, too!
Thanks for reading and enjoy!
xoH
Looks fab! Did you make your spring rolls too?
I took Ava through Twin Falls this summer and we ate at Idaho Joe’s where I learned to wait tables. One of my former co-workers waited on us. What a trip to time travel! Recipe looks delish. #cilantroforever